Designer Andreea Badala takes us through some key aspects of the brand’s newest collection.
The MURMUR universe as our clients came to know it tends to rely very much on fantasy. I was often told by women that they wear MURMUR when they want to transcend reality or to add a new layer to it. The MURMUR client is in love with the MURMUR fantasy, but she doesn’t want to live it as an isolated experience – once or twice a year, usually in the evening, when she puts on her Pulp Dress. She wants it to be part of her lifestyle.
This year, we are introducing Iconic, a day to night, ready-to-wear collection that offers our clients a more wearable version of the designs that have been worn by international celebrities onstage, in music videos or at award ceremonies. With Iconic, we considered the most important traits of our Signature pieces, and used them to create simpler, versatile pieces, made for a woman who is always on the go.
THE NEW SCULPT
Before creating what eventually became the Sculpt Bodysuit, I was fascinated by how bras looked in the 1950s. Those pointy cups you saw protruding from underneath the sweaters in the movies. From my very first collection, I developed a shape that placed all accent on design and geometry. The black Poise Dress had great success, especially among celebrities.
In time, I saw how a reinterpretation of a classical shape becomes itself a classical shape. And, as part of its natural evolution, I wanted it to become more popular offstage.
The satin Sculpt Bodysuit that everybody knows and loves is mainly destined for special occasions. It’s not made to be worn casually and regularly. And although it’s a highly sensual piece, it has something almost intimidating about it, like a shield – it offers protection and it imposes a certain distance.
Having that in mind, we created the new Sculpt Bodysuit, from our Iconic collection. Everything from fabric and design, to construction and technology have been toned down, in order to make this piece easy to wear no matter the hour and the occasion. We chose a very soft fabric – a mix of cotton, polyester and elastane. We worked for over six months to develop this ready-to-wear, machine washable piece. The bra cups and the fitting have changed. The cups now have only one layer of padding, and the piece can be worn discreetly underneath other clothes, like a basic.
We also added the Sculpt Dress to the collection, which comes in black and beige – two colors that are brand specific. This is the definition of a MURMUR short, tight dress, that emphasizes the bust and highlights the waist and the hips. It seemed necessary. It’s also very comfortable, and, as it happens with many MURMUR pieces, you can only understand how good it feels on the body when you try it on.
A photograph can’t always do justice to a product. You can see some new pieces and wonder: what’s new? Well, the technology and the fitting can be new, the proportions, the focus on wearability and versatility. These are things that photographs – as social media trained us to consume them – cannot show. One can come up with a striking design (visually speaking), but the questions are: how’s the fitting? how’s the quality? does it stand the test of time? You have to touch and wear our Iconic pieces to understand the importance of constantly questioning, testing and developing a product.
FROM ICONIC TO ATELIER
It’s only normal for a brand, as it grows, to want to keep the designs that constitute its essence. Signature Atelier stands out as a collection of precious statement pieces that we have launched over the years and which deserve to be continued. These are made-to-order pieces, which are crafted in our Bucharest atelier and which celebrate the beauty of craftsmanship. They are complex, timeless and sensual creations, destined for rare, unforgettable moments. And they speak tons about the brand’s vision and DNA.